What level is the surf camp suitable for?

Perfect for beginners. We started with no prior experience: first the right wetsuit is picked out, then there's a theory lesson (rip current, low and high tide, offshore wind, how to read the waves and who has priority) before you head into the water. At the beginning you only practise paddling and lying on the board, then standing up – first on land, then in the wave. After a week of practice we both reached our goal of standing on the board for a few seconds. You won't turn into a pro in a week, but you'll have the basics down.

When do people have dinner in Portugal?

Much later than we're used to. At the hotel dinner wasn't served until 19:30, and in the restaurants on the Algarve often not before 20:00 or 21:00. For us that regularly meant bridging the time between the afternoon and the meal while hungry – we never quite got used to these eating habits.

Can you get around Portugal without a rental car?

You can, but it's not much fun. Taking the bus was more of an ordeal for us: long walks to the stop, transfers and buses that rarely arrive on time – or at all. Between the towns, from Ericeira via Lisbon to Lagos, we travelled by metro and Flixbus. In Ericeira especially it was a bit too quiet for us without our own car. If you want to be flexible, you're clearly better off with a rental car (or a scooter for short distances).

What can you do on the Algarve besides the beach?

Quite a lot. We went to the water park, did a kayak tour to Praia do Camilo with its caves and rented a scooter to visit Luz, windy Sagres and pretty Burgau. In the evening a rooftop bar in Lagos with frozen daiquiris is worth it. And of course the coves themselves – often reached via many flights of steps – are an experience in their own right.

What's included at the surf camp?

For us the accommodation at the Cliff Surfhouse (with pool, common room, its own vegetable garden and a small farm), breakfast and dinner as well as the surf lessons were included – along with the wetsuit, surfboard, transport to the surf spots (when it was too windy, sometimes a 45-minute drive to Peniche) and a video analysis. On top of that came small extras like a visit to the surfboard shapery and a surf skate session. Drinks like beer and sangria were billed separately, and you could book an additional surf lesson.

Surf Camp Portugal: 17 Days, Atlantic and Algarve

Departure from Düsseldorf

Having finally arrived at the airport, the first thing to do is find the check-in and diligently queue up before the counter is even open – exactly the way a good German citizen does it. At 11:00 Lauri has arrived too, at 11:30 check-in starts and at 14:00 the plane takes off.

The flight to Lisbon

After a 3-hour flight, AirPortugal has set us down safely in Lisbon. Just enough time for a film. New realization: the Portuguese also stand up the moment the plane touches the ground.

Arrival at the hotel

After we quickly had our suitcases, an older teacher took us towards the hotel in a private taxi. After about an hour's drive and a lot of English small talk (with Maria from Munich) we had reached our hotel. Then the disappointing news: dinner not until 19:30. So, hungry, we spent about two little hours exploring the hotel and the adjacent beach. Verdict: no balcony, unfortunately, but two pools right by the sea and a beach directly next door. Even after checking out the beach it still wasn't 19:30, so we also went to see the cute town centre. At the buffet we then ceremonially overate afterwards, especially on fries. A quick shop at the supermarket and then the day was rounded off with a game of Skip-Bo.

Day trip to Lisbon

After 3 hours and around 52 stops, we finally made it to Lisbon by bus and metro. Today's activities:

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte – a viewpoint with a view over all of Lisbon and Castelo de São Jorge
Praça do Comércio – a large trading square right by the water
Time Out Market – a little pizza stop
Pink Street
A ride on the tram – Lisbon's landmark
A wobbly ride back on the tuk-tuk

Verdict: one day of Lisbon is enough for us and not necessarily the most beautiful capital in Europe, but still worth a visit. The Portuguese are very friendly and helpful, but despite our Spanish skills we don't understand a word of Portuguese. Before dinner we christened the Atlantic.

Pool and sports day

Today we're taking it easy. After picking up some basic Portuguese over breakfast, we were coaxed into aqua fitness in the pool. As you can see, finding a suitable position to read a book turned out to be pretty exhausting. After a few "laps" in the "only" 10 m long pool, we explored the gym – no surprise, nobody there in this weather, but somehow those fries have to be worked off. Lauri christened the Atlantic afterwards too. Hungry, we again had to pass the time until dinner. Feedback on the food: definitely far too much fish today, but generally lots of choice, high-quality food, friendly staff and plenty of vegetarian options. To finish, we explored Ericeira's windy coasts over a Portuguese beer and I left a bit of money at a jewellery stall in the town centre.

Another day by the pool

This morning the day started a little foggy, but still warm enough for the pool. To the words "Pédalo, Pédalo" we pedalled away busily in the pool during aqua fitness. Around midday we headed to the ginásio again, but first to the supermercado – our Portuguese is getting better. We also paid a quick visit to the sauna and the indoor pool. Laura is already struggling with sunburn, so stylish alternatives have to be arranged. After that we again had to hungrily bridge the time until dinner. 19:30 is simply too late … Lauri couldn't get the ring out of her head either, and there was plenty of haggling. When playing, the fun stops for Lauri at +2, where a serious face is put on, but a sangria can save the seriousness of the situation.

Off to the surf camp

Today is the last day in Ericeira. After a leisurely breakfast the suitcases are packed and the day is spent by the pool; today we again lounge around by the pool until the taxi comes at 15:00. Sceptically, the taxi driver drops us off in the "middle of nowhere" – but we're in the right place at the Cliff Surfhouse in Santa Cruz. First we have to overcome our inhibitions about speaking English, and there's a bit of settling in to do before dinner. Miguel, the surf coach, briefly shows us the house with its pool, common room, own vegetable garden and farm, and introduces us to the two sheep (one of them was called Karen) and the baby goats.

After a small briefing over a sangria, but at the latest over the lasagne and a (or several) "Super Bock" beer, the ice is broken. Even though the Germans are in the majority, we have a very international group – two Dutch women, two Italians, two Poles, an Irish woman, an Austrian, a Swiss woman, a Luxembourger and a Norwegian. Everyone is super likeable and we're excited for tomorrow's first surf lesson. The surf camp's beer supply was already killed off on the first evening. What we learned today: when the Poles are drunk, they speak German to give the impression they're German.

The first surf lesson: what do you learn first?

After breakfast the right wetsuit was picked out – definitely a challenge to squeeze into it. Then came the first surf theory lesson. Here are the important things we learned:

There's a rip current that pulls you out to sea, and you should get to the left or right as quickly as possible to avoid it.
Low tide is much better for surfing, as it's not so deep and you can walk into the sea instead of paddling.
We learned how to read the best conditions from a weather surf app (wind direction, wave direction, wave interval).
To surf we need offshore wind – meaning from the land towards the ocean, so the waves are bigger.
The surfer furthest back always has priority – everyone else has to get out of the way.

After a small lunch snack, theory is put into practice. The goal for today: "Catch the wave, catch the wave, catch the wave". We're not green or blue in the face because we're playing the new lead in Shrek or Avatar, but because zinc holds much better than sunscreen and so we can avoid sunburn. The first task was simply to paddle, catch the wave and keep our balance lying down. After a short break we first practised on land how, in theory, you'd stand up in four steps. Then it was time to practise. More badly than well, we both managed to stand up, but you can't call that surfing yet.

Completely done in, back at the surf house it's straight on to the next game of table tennis, but both the Italian rules and the Polish rules are different from the German ones – Laura got the hang of it, but after 90 minutes I still hadn't understood when I have to change places – maybe it's the hunger too. Laura stays at the camp with a few people and explains Skip-Bo, while I go for a little digestive walk. In the evening we're all taught a few Italian dance steps. The Italians are also the first people I know who can sing along to the Macarena.

Surfing, Skating, Sunset and Sushi

Today we set off straight after breakfast. Since the waves in Santa Cruz are too big, a 45-minute drive to Peniche is on the cards. Completely different conditions today, the waves are much smaller, but that doesn't mean it's easier. Today it's already exhausting just to get the surfboard down to the beach. It's easier to get out of the water than yesterday, but the waves break harder, so today's challenge is not to get the board in the face. After waiting for the waves ourselves for a bit, our surf instructor Alfonso timed the perfect moment of the "green wave" so that we had the chance to stand up – wobbly, but it worked. Today's surf lesson cost us just under 800 calories. Yesterday even 1,300! What we learned on the beach today: the only word the Poles remember after 13 years of German at school is "Staubsauger" (vacuum cleaner).

There's still a lot on the programme today; barely back at the house, off we go again to the surfboard shapery, where step by step we're shown how a surfboard is made. Afterwards we understand why a surfboard is so expensive and why it can sometimes take 5/6 months until the board is finished. Straight after that it's on to surf skating – in my opinion even wobblier than surfing. After trying to guess the sunset over a beer, since it's cloudy, we finally get sushi. By the end of the evening we've mastered the use of the three most important gestures in Italian sign language.

Video analysis and dinner out

After yesterday's exhausting day it's already hard to get into the wetsuit today. The day starts quietly. Not much is said in the car and not much in the surf lesson either; everyone drifts around on their boards more like seals. On top of the sore muscles come a few bruises, aching ankles and hips. Although today has been the least strenuous day so far, we still only make it onto the pool loungers, with no ambition to move much at all. A lot was filmed today, as there was a video analysis of everyone in the afternoon. There was plenty to laugh about and plenty to correct. We're optimistic that it'll go better tomorrow. Our surf skills can be seen in the last video. In the evening a dinner at a Portuguese restaurant is on the agenda and once again we're impressed by Portuguese hospitality and mentality.

Messy waves in Peniche: when the surf refuses to play along

Well fortified after breakfast, we set off early to the beach again today. On the south side in Peniche there was too little wind today. So we drove to the north side. Today there's onshore wind, meaning from the sea towards the coast, so today we have "white waves" that have already broken. Today's wave conditions are chaotic and short in interval. Before the surf lesson we always have to warm up nicely. But the video analysis helped and, after the struggle in the water, we manage to surf all the way to the beach a few times.

After the surf lesson we stop at a food truck today – the options questionable, but at least cheap. After that the Dacia needed a quick jump-start – but the cars here only have a measly 300,000–400,000 km on them … At midday there's only a bit of stretching, hopefully it helps for tomorrow's surf lesson. This evening there's another dinner out; until then, the time is passed by the pool or with a game of table tennis. Sadly, tonight's dinner was nowhere near as good as yesterday's. Not only did it arrive cold, but in terms of quantity it also wasn't enough for hungry surf campers.

Last day of surfing

Today the last day of surfing is on the cards. Once again in Peniche, but once again rather few waves. Today it works out well for everyone; a week of practice has paid off and our goal of standing 10 seconds on the board we've both, I think, mastered pretty well. Let's see if we can also reach our goal tomorrow of getting a nice surf photo. Today too we stop again at the food trucks – the burger and the bread there are better than yesterday's food. There's nothing more on the programme for the rest of the day – so time for an Aperol by the pool. In the evening there's a barbecue, everything with fresh vegetables and fruit grown on site. At 10 p.m. there's still cake and espresso. Very slowly our bodies are getting used to Portuguese eating habits.

At an evening round of beer pong, different rules are played at every table – the Portuguese ones are the strictest. Running gag of the week: "doing a Polish one" is not a prejudice but has been confirmed throughout. The Poles are always the first to leave or get up from the table without saying a single word. The two of them can joke about it themselves, since they're quite aware of it. Another observation: the Italians are definitely the biggest patriots, they love their music, their food and their drinks. Order a cappuccino after midday or a Coke with your meal and you get a critical look followed by the typical hand gesture (meaning: "What?" or "Why?").

Last evening

On a whim I decided to take the extra surf lesson today. Today we don't set off until 13:30, so there's still enough time after breakfast to finally have a look at the beach in Santa Cruz. Unfortunately too cold and too windy to go swimming, but the beaches here are gorgeous. This week the surf conditions are really bad; normally people always surf in Santa Cruz in summer, but this week it's simply too windy there. We spend two hours looking for a suitable beach, getting out again and again to check the waves, only to end up deciding on the same beach as the day before after all. Even fewer waves than yesterday, so the extra surf lesson didn't really pay off. Laura meanwhile spends a relaxed day at the house. Before a tasty curry, we all look through the photos of the week together. The odd good surf photo did come out of it. Tonight everyone goes to bed fairly early; everyone is knackered from the week and many still have a long journey ahead tomorrow.

Verdict of the week: surfing is great fun, even if it's very exhausting. It was very interesting to get to know other cultures, and even though it was tiring I hope our English skills got a bit better by the end of the week. Really delicious food and lots of interesting people, but we're both glad the action-packed week is over and that it's just the two of us continuing on to the Algarve. 5,833 calories were burned through surfing alone.

Off to the Algarve

Today there were crêpes for breakfast. Then the bill was settled; anything under €300 in drinks and food for the week is still fine. After everyone had said their goodbyes, Alfonso drove us to the airport. Once we'd also said goodbye there to the two Poles and the Swiss woman, we headed towards the metro, off to Oriente. From there it's on by Flixbus to Lagos. The Flixbus is on time; at 14:29 the doors close and off we go – we're astonished. The driver had also said briefly but clearly that eating on the bus is forbidden. We saw this more as a recommendation and cheerfully munched our Oreos. After about three hours' drive, the driver pulls over to the right in the middle of the motorway, marches to the back and orders someone to leave the bus immediately because eating on the bus is forbidden. The driver means business and, without any discussion, simply leaves the man standing on the hard shoulder in the middle of nowhere – we're shocked and realize how lucky we were that our little rule-breaking went unnoticed.

After four hours' drive and 25 minutes of walking up and down over cobblestones, we finally arrive with our suitcases at our new hotel. At first glance super beautiful and historic. Once quickly checked in, off we go hungry into town and at last we finally eat a pizza. After that we explore a few jewellery stalls, the town centre and the first coves. At last we can walk around in the evening without a thick jumper and without freezing, and at first glance we're very taken with Lagos.

Off to the water park

After breakfast we spontaneously decide to go to the water park. The bus is a torment again. 25 minutes on foot to the station in Lagos, over an hour's drive and, once in Lagoa, another 30-plus minutes of walking. We definitely always choose the route nobody else chooses, and today we even had to climb over a fence for it. After more than 15 slides and a portion of fries, we set off back. This time with a different, hopefully better bus connection, where we can get on much closer to the water park. At the transfer we were lucky, because pretty much every bus was far too late and so we didn't have to wait an hour for a connecting bus. Taking the bus here is similar to Büderich: maybe a bus comes, maybe it doesn't, but definitely not at the time on the schedule, if there even is one. On the way back through the town centre we made a stop at the Italian – two pizzas in a row is really no problem for me. After that we just walked around town a bit to sort out activities for the next few days.

Beach day

After a breakfast with a fantastic Nutella cake, work had to be done on making the surfer's tan line (only brown hands and feet) disappear a little. For that we went 224 steps down (and of course back up again later) to a gorgeous little cove. A bit crowded, unfortunately, but the beaches here are dreamy nonetheless. About 10 times we looked for a new spot, because the water kept coming closer or we were no longer in the shade the way we wanted, but that didn't stop us from playing Uno. The woman who took the photo of the two of us happened, funnily enough, to be from Bocholt. After our time on the beach we went back to the hotel. Freshly showered and, naturally, hungry again, we headed into town. Third time in a row to the Italian – today we tried the red sangria for a change. After that we carried on our search for jewellery; Laura found something, but I'll probably have to go back into town tomorrow.

Kayak tour & rooftop bar

Disappointingly, there was no Nutella cake for breakfast today. Fortified nonetheless and after a small detour, we made it to the harbour by 09:15. At 09:30 the booked kayak tour set off. Even though it was so early in the morning, quite a few boats were already out and it was fairly busy. The beach we were at yesterday is called Praia do Camilo (Camel Beach), because a rock formation, seen from the water, looks as if a giant camel were lying on the beach. In the caves, Laura and I were mostly busy trying not to touch the walls, because the closer you looked, the more crabs you could see, and it felt as though the whole wall was moving. After a little jump into the water, we were towed back to the harbour by a motorboat. In town we made a burger stop, then it was off to the cute pool of our hotel. Every 10 minutes you had to get into the water, too hot to listen to music, too bright to read, too warm to move. At four it was into the shower and afterwards into town.

After dinner we were brought the dessert menu – cheesecake right at the top, so we decided to share a slice for dessert. One bite was enough to realize that it was the most dreadful cheesecake we'd ever eaten. Unfortunately we couldn't hide this in front of the waiters either. Even though the waiter actually hadn't charged for the cheesecake, we paid for it. After the meal we found a cool rooftop bar with incredibly tasty frozen daiquiris. Afterwards we played another round of Qwixx on our balcony.

Last day

Well fortified again by Nutella cake, we head off on a little walk to the scooter rental. For today we've rented a scooter. First we head to Luz, only 8 km away. After a short stop we've already seen everything the town has to offer and decide, after all, on the 30 km tour towards Sagres, one of the westernmost towns in Europe. Already on the scooter we notice that it's getting colder and windier. A good 10 degrees less and cold wind also keep us from staying there long. We briefly visit the rather ugly Sagres fortress, only to find that it's not quite "THE" westernmost point of Europe – but a westerly point is enough for us. According to the weather app there are supposed to be gusts of up to 49 km/h (it felt like even more, though). So for us: no long deliberating, back on the scooter to the next town: Burgau. This time we're lucky, a gorgeous beach and streets that look a bit like the ones in Santorini. In a small café with super friendly service we take a little break and enjoy a tasty milkshake and iced coffee, and I have an avocado toast on top. One last time we lie out in the Portuguese sun, Laura a little more hidden. If you look very closely at the last picture, you'll find Laura, who has sought out the only shady spot on the beach.

To round off the last evening we wait almost an hour for an Italian restaurant – but dinner not until 8 p.m. is something we're used to by now, on day 16/17. To bridge the wait there's even a prosecco on the house here. Over a round of Yahtzee we let our last evening together wind down.

Long departure

Today a long departure day lies ahead of us. Inconspicuously, we managed to pilfer some Nutella cake from the hotel as provisions. Punctually at 9:00 the shuttle is ready and takes us to Faro airport. Unfortunately, before it's on to Düsseldorf, there's still a domestic flight from Faro to Lisbon ahead of us. A domestic flight was actually the cheapest option and only this way does the whole trip count, in legal travel terms, as a package holiday. After about a 45-minute flight, the time at the airport has to be killed from 14:00. The selection of airport food isn't exactly thrilling, but we have time for a verdict on the trip:

We got through the "long" time of 17 days in Portugal with a good mix of action and relaxation. Both of us gathered new energy for the new job and were able to really recover from everyday life for once. As a surf destination we'd definitely recommend Portugal, dreamy beaches and waves – both of us are hooked on surfing and definitely want to try it again. Despite the beautiful beaches, in one or two spots it was too windy and too cold for us – for a classic beach holiday perhaps not quite the right thing. We were very happy with our choice of hotels, but in both Ericeira and Lagos five days were enough for us to explore the place. In Ericeira the location right by the beach, the pool right by the sea and the small town were top, but very local and, without a rental car, a bit too quiet for us. In Lagos we could have been a bit closer to the beach and the town centre, but the charm of the hotel made up for everything. Taking the bus in Portugal is definitely no fun – but we got to know the Portuguese as, for the most part, very friendly and helpful; only rarely was there an eye-roll from the waiters over dreadful cheesecake. We're a little disappointed that we didn't see any pros on a surfboard anywhere. To the eating habits, with dinner not until after 21:00, we definitely can't get used. The verdict on the surf camp itself we've already given. Even the most beautiful trip comes to an end, and at 22:30 we landed in Düsseldorf. 23:25, we've got our suitcases, we're heading home!